Italy's best dishes and their origins
Tortellini and ragu from Bologna
Bologna, the capital of Italian cuisine, relishes its reputation as ‘the fat’ (la grassa), but foodies regard its stuffed pasta as supremely rich rather than fattening. Bologna also claims mortadella, a classic cold cut, as well as meaty ragu, the true Bolognese sauce, rather than the bastardised versions served abroad.
Bologna is the home of tortellini, rose bud-shaped pasta filled with spinach and ricotta cheese. ‘If the first father of the human race was lost for an apple, what would he not have done for a plate of tortellini?’ goes a local saying. Legends about tortellini’s origins abound. One version gives credit to a young cook of a wealthy Bolognese merchant who modelled the curiously shaped pasta on the navel of his master’s wife, whom he had seen sleeping naked.
Naples’ thin-crust pizza
Naples is the place to eat pizza baked over wood in a brick-lined oven. Traditional Naples pizzas include pizza Napoletana (tomatoes, mozzarella, anchovies and oregano), pizza margherita (topped with mozzarella, tomatoes and basil leaves) and pizza marinara (topped with tomatoes, garlic, clams, mussels and oregano).
Preparing pizza in Naples. Photo: Shutterstock
Risotto in Lombardy
Lombardy produces more rice than any other European region, and the famous risotto alla Milanese, seasoned with saffron, does justice to the native grain, which is ideally suite to slow cooking. Variations on risotto include risotto nero, in which the rice is coloured black by cuttlefish ink. Another way to transform a risotto is to shave a little truffle over the top.
Parmesan and Parma ham from Parma
It is in Emilia Romagna – the culinary region par excellence – that you’ll find both Parma ham and Parmesan cheese. Try Parma ham as a starter (antipasto), sliced into water-thin slivers for eating with bread, melons or figs; and end your meal, perhaps with shavings of superior Parmigiano-Reggiano, partnered with apples, pears or just a good red wine. Parmesan is sold as young (under 18 months), medium (18–24 months) or mature (24–36 months).
A typical Italian appetiser. Photo: Shutterstock
A Roman feast
Rome’s cuisine comes nearest to that associated with feasting. Suckling pigs and suckling lambs are mouth-watering specialities. The justly famous salminbocca alla romana (a thin slice of veal wrapped around a slice of prosciutto and a sage leaf, browned in butter and simmered in white wine) lives up to its name – ‘jump into the mouth’. Romans also thrive on gnocchi – feathery dumplings incorporating butter, eggs, nutmeg and Parmesan – while their poor relation, polenta, made from yellow maize flour, is popular in the Veneto and Trentino.
Truffles in Alba
Italy abounds in foodie feasts, but the finely grated truffles transform the simplest dish into a sensation that some Piedmontese say is better than sex. The best white truffles are found in this area of Piedmont, where they are sniffed out by specially trained dogs; white and black truffles are also found in Tuscany, while black truffles are associated with Umbria.