Helsinki travel guide

Best places to visit and things to do in Helsinki

Senate Square

The centrepiece of Helsinki is the majestic Senate Square (Senaatintori), with its magnificent cathedral and elegant neo-classical buildings.

In 1809 Finland was annexed to Imperial Russia as an Autonomous Grand Duchy, and three years later Helsinki became its capital. Russia commissioned a German architect, Carl Ludwig Engel, to rebuild the square as the centre of the new city in the Empire style then favoured in St Petersburg. The result is not only beautiful but an unusually consistent example of neo-classical design.

Dominating the Square is Helsinki Cathedral (1852). Wth its five green cupolas, white Corinthian columns and sprinkling of important figurines posing on its roof, it is decidedly impressive. 

On the eastern side of the Square is the Council of State building, the former Imperial Senate of 1822, and in the centre of the Square stands a statue of Tsar Alexander II (1894).

Although not on the square itself, the pastel-yellow Empire-style ­University Library, next to the university building, has been praised as Engel’s masterpiece and is considered a Finnish architectural landmark. Unfortunately, Engel didn’t live long enough to witness its opening in 1840. Take a few minutes to view the marvellously ornate Cupola Hall, designed to resemble Roman baths. The upper area is supported by 28 marble columns, their pinnacles gilded with gold leaf, with the images and ornaments on the domed ceiling symbolising knowledge and learning. It is considered one of the world’s most beautiful library buildings.

Market Square (Kauppatori)

Market Square (Kauppatori) is one of Helsinki’s real delights. The market (closed on Sundays) has been in operation since the 18th century, and features lots of fresh fish, especially salmon, some of which is sold directly from small boats. There are fruit and vegetables, numerous handicraft stalls offering souvenirs and furs, and a motley collection of outdoor cafés housed in tents.

The square is also the venue for the Baltic Herring Market, a week-long seafood festival held each October. The obelisk with a strange, golden, two-headed eagle is the Empress’ Stone. Erected in 1835, it became Helsinki’s first public memorial, commemorating Empress Alexandra’s first visit to the city two years earlier. However, the eagle was removed by Russian sailors in 1917, during the Revolution, and wasn’t replaced until 1972.

Central railway station

The Central Railway Station is one of the city’s best-known historical buildings. Dominated by a massive, four-sided clock tower, it dates from the late 1910s and links two of Helsinki’s most prevalent styles: National Romanticism and Functionalism. More than 200,000 people pass through it each day – but only half as passengers. Railway Station Square (Rautatientori), to the east, serves as an open-air bus station and has, on its north side, the National-Romantic-style Finnish National Theatre, which has been the theatrical company’s home since 1902. An oversized statue of playwright and novelist Alexis Kivi (1834–72) stands outside. He is now recognised as one of Finland’s greatest writers, although he died in obscurity. 

Uspenski Cathedral

Standing on the hill at the end of Market Square is Uspenski Cathedral, a striking exception to Helsinki's general architectural style. After the Russians defeated the Swedes in 1809 they decided that a major Orthodox cathedral was needed in Helsinki. The result was this massive church, designed by Aleksi Gornostajev in the Russian Byzantine style, and built on a site previously reserved for an Imperial Palace. Consecrated on 13 October 1868, it is the largest Orthodox cathedral in the Western world. When Finland gained independence, ties with the Russian Church were cut and a 1918 decree put Orthodoxy on a par with Lutheranism as the second national religion.

Its red-brick conglomeration of cross-tipped spires and onion-shaped domes has undoubtedly helped convince many filmmakers to use Helsinki as a surrogate Moscow (for example, in Reds and Gorky Park). The cathedral’s interior is also both impressive and atmospheric, with a glittering iconostasis. Services in Old Church Slavonic are held at least twice weekly.

Katajanokka and Art Nouveau 

Katajanokka, the best known historical part of town, lies on a small promontory sticking out into the sea a few blocks east from Senate Square. The area is connected to the centre by two short bridges where locals like to cast their fishing rods. After a snowstorm or on a brilliant spring day, the elegant streets round here are pure serenity. Unfortunately, the first thing you see crossing the Kanavakatu Bridge on to Katajanokka is one of Alvar Aalto’s least successful efforts: the dirty white marble Enso Gutzeit Office Building (the “sugar cube”), dated 1962. 

The Russian motif so apparent in Uspenski Cathedral is echoed elsewhere on Katajanokka, and flirtatious basilic motifs appear over many doorways. Red brick also gets more use, particularly in the recently built residences on the tip of the promontory. But central Luotsikatu is one street where Jugendian (Art Nouveau) style rules. Many of the buildings on this and nearby streets were designed by the architectural team of Gesellius, Lindgren and Saarinen at the turn of the 20th century and abound with little pleasures. Don’t miss the charming griffin doorway at No. 5.

The southern side of Katajanokka is where the huge Viking Line ships come in from Stockholm, disembarking crowds of passengers. Warehouses have been converted, and the so-called Wanha Satama now entertains a clutch of eating spots, exhibition halls and stores. 

Temppelinaukion Church

East of the centre, in Töölö, is Helsinki’s most unusual church and one of the city’s most famous tourist attractions. The Temppeliaukio Church was built in 1968–69 by the architect brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. The walls have been quarried out of natural bedrock and it is topped by a massive copper dome with a diameter of 24m (79ft). It is lined with 22km (13 miles) of copper stripping, supported by reinforced concrete beams, and light is reflected inwards from 180 skylights. Also called the Church of the Rock, it can hold a congregation of nearly one thousand and has excellent acoustics, so try to visit during a service or attend one of the regular music performances.

Finlandia Hall

Also in Töölö is the modernist Finlandia Hall. Designed by the renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto in 1962 and built in 1967–71, this is one of Finland’s most important concert and congress halls. It is both ornamental and functional and its marble walls bring a Mediterranean element to this northern land. 

Kiasma

Helsinki’s reigning museum of contemporary art is situated on Mannerheiminaukio, just across from the Parliament Building and adjacent to Finlandia Hall. This remarkable machine-like structure by American architect Steven Holl is a symbol of a new Helsinki, whose cultural centre is gradually migrating to this area from Senate Square. The curving asymmetrical building harmoniously interacts with its surroundings – the oddly shaped windows afford good views of the key landmarks of Helsinki. 

Besides exhibiting Finnish and international contemporary art, one of the main purposes of this museum is to act as a public meeting place, to create a lively, continuous contact between contemporary art and art lovers.

Helsinki residents love to get away at the weekend to their summer cottage