Ko Phi Phi Don: overview
The twin islands of Ko Phi Phi are in the Andaman Sea just two hours from the main hubs of Phuket and Krabi. While heavy development on Ko Phi Phi Don and the crowds on Ko Phi Phi Ley means they are no longer the idyll of old, these islands remain among Thailand's most popular diving locations.
Ko Phi Phi Don is made up of two elongated islands joined together by a narrow isthmus to create what looks from the air like a giant high-backed chair. Most development is concentrated on the bays found on either side of the isthmus - Ao Ton Sai and Ao Lo Dalam. If you're after peace and solitude, head to Ao Lo Bakao; for the best snorkelling, head to Hat Laem Thong, which is also home to a community of sea gypsies. The main attraction inland is a viewpoint near Ao Lo Dalam.
Places to visit in Ko Phi Phi Don
Ao Ton Sai
This is where boats to the island dock, in a bay that would be far prettier were it not for the ferries and longtail boats lining it from one end to the other. Information booths cluster at the end of the pier, beyond which Ton Sai village comprises a compact area of restaurants, bars, dive shops, internet cafes and stalls selling everything from sarongs and beaded jewellery to sandwiches and banana pancakes.
Opposite Ao Ton Sai and only a few minutes' walk away, Ao Lo Dalam is a quieter and prettier bay with a lovely curve of white sand skimming clear blue waters. Following the tsunami, reconstruction along Ao Lo Dalam has been slower compared to Ao Ton Sai.
Although Hat Hin Khom, located at the western end of Ao Ton Sai, and scenic Hat Yao (Long Beach), at the southwestern tip of the island, were similarly hit by the tsunami, the damage was less severe and the hotels were able to rebuild more quickly. Access to Hat Yao is either by longtail boat (10 minutes) from Ton Sai or a 40-minute walk.
Hat Laem Thong
All the beaches along the eastern side of Ko Phi Phi Don were left unscathed by the tsunami. The best snorkelling and the most exclusive resorts are found to the northeast of the island on Hat Laem Thong, where the majority of visitors are either honeymooners or those seeking a more isolated beach. The beach is beautiful and quiet, but as boat transportation is scarce in these parts, it's difficult to get to other parts of the island from here. Hat Laem Thong is also the home of a small community of chao lay or sea gypsies.
Sea Gypsies
The Andaman Sea is home to three groups of nearly 5,000 "Sea Gypsies", known in Thai as Chao Lay. They principally live in coastal shacks, from Ranong to Ko Tarutao, and subsist by fishing and beachcombing, although the most famous, the Moken, lead a mainly nomadic life on boats moving between islands. The other two communities, the Urak Lawoi and the Moklen, are fairly well integrated in Thai society. The Chao Lay's intimacy with their environment is said to have saved many from the 2004 tsunami, when they understood early-warning signs in the sea's behaviour and fled to higher ground.
Ao Lo Bakao
South of Hat Laem Thong, Ao Lo Bakao contains mainly upmarket accommodation on its quiet beach, including the luxury all-suite Zeavola Resort. Further south is Hat Pak Nam and Hat Ranti, which are very low key and have scant accommodation.
Inland viewpoint
Inland attractions are limited but many people take the 30-minute hike over to the viewpoint located high on a bluff at the southern end of Ao Lo Dalam.
Understandably, the scenic point is at its busiest around sunrise and sunset; from here the vista of the twin bays of Ao Ton Sai and Ao Lo Dalam, separated by a thin band of land with the mountain behind, is simply breathtaking.
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