Around Lake Nasser and Abu Simbel
Lake Nasser is the reservoir created when the Aswan High Dam was built. The Nile was tamed once and for all by the dam, but the Nubians, whose land had been flooded, paid a high price.
Though the world community rallied to save most of the ancient monuments, including the spectacular Sun Temple built by Rameses II at Abu Simbel and the impressive temple in Philae, by dismantling them block by block and transplanting them elsewhere on the shores of the lake, some 800,000 Nubians lost everything else.
Best things to see around Lake Nasser
Cruising on Lake Nasser
Taking a cruise on Lake Nasser has become a popular alternative to Nile cruising. For more on Nile cruising, read here.
Abu Simbel's temples
The temples of Abu Simbel, at the southern end of Lake Nasser, are among the greatest architectural achievements of Ancient Egypt, and among the best known. Rather than build them from stone, Ramesses II had the temples hewn into the cliffs of the Nile valley, on a site in ancient Nubia 7km (4 miles) from the border with Sudan. The construction of the Aswan High Dam in 1972 and the creation of Lake Nasser threatened to flood the temple complex, so it was decided to remove them to a similar setting where there was no risk of flooding.
An artificial cliffside was created on higher ground, replicating the original in every dimension. The temple complex was then dismantled into over 1,000 pieces – some weighing up to 15 tons – transported to the new site and reassembled. The reconstruction is virtually perfect. Ramesses II built these temples in the 13th century BC, at the height of his power, imposing his authority throughout his kingdom. As well as symbolising his power, the temples were used to store gold and other precious cargos that arrived from central Africa by camel.
Ramesses II's temple
The facade of the Temple of Ramesses II is one of the most enduring images of Egypt – it is used on the front of numerous guides and brochures – but nothing can prepare you for the reality which is truly breathtaking.
The four monumental colossi of Ramesses II that frame the entrance stand 20m (65ft) high and face the rising sun, to be infused with the energy of the sun god each day. The pharaoh is seated, imperturbable, wearing the double crown signifying his control over both Upper and Lower Egypt. At his feet are his family, represented as diminutive figures. Bas-reliefs carved on the pharaoh’s thrones depict the Nile gods.
Queen Nefertari's temple
Near the temple of Ramesses II is the smaller Temple of Nefertari, his beloved wife. She, too, is deified and in a facade of six colossi 11.5m (38ft) high, she stands at equal height to her husband – a rare honour for a consort in Egypt. However, of the six statues only two are of Nefertari, the other four are consecrated to Ramesses, maintaining his position of superiority. Within the sanctuary dedicated to Hathor is a room where Ramesses and Nefertari made offerings to the gods, as well as carvings showing the pharaoh himself worshipping his deified wife.
Temple of Isis at Philae
The Temple of Isis at Philae was removed stone by stone to an island 5km (3 miles) south of Aswan. Known as the ‘Pearl of Egypt’ as much for its beauty as its setting, it was built in the 4th century BC to honour the goddess Isis, whose cult lasted longer here than elsewhere, up until the 4th century AD. It was later converted into a Coptic church, and you can see Christian crosses carved into the lintels and door frames.
The main temple was modified over centuries, and the impressive outer pylon was built in the 2nd century BC. In front, the Kiosk of Nectanebo (381–362BC) contains small shrines to local gods, and there is a temple to Imhotep, architect of the Step Pyramid, who was later deified.
Inside the main temple, the small birthing chamber, or mammisi, is decorated with bas-reliefs of Isis holding her new-born son Horus. A second pylon shows Ptolemy XIII paying homage to Isis, flanked by Osiris and Horus. The Romans continued the cult of Isis at Philae, adding their own variations. The beautiful Kiosk of Emperor Trajan, with ornate floral capitals supported by elegant columns, makes a striking contrast to the Egyptian temple designs.
Visit a sound and light show
Sound and light shows are available at almost every major temple in Egypt, combining kitsch music and lights with voiceovers conducted by actors with very plummy British accents.
If you want to give one a try, the show at Philae is generally acknowledged to be one of the better ones. Try to arrive about an hour before sunset so you can enjoy the natural view before sitting down to watch the man-made one. Performances are conducted in multiple languages, so it is best to check the schedule before arrival.The times vary, so ask at your hotel or the tourist office for details.
Read more from the travel guide to Egypt
