Hua Hin: overview
Hua Hin was the country's first resort destination, a high-society recreation spot since the 1920s. It has long had an air of exclusivity, thanks to the private residences maintained by Thai royalty and the capital's wealthy elite. Partly because of this, it retains more of a family ambience than other beach destinations. The royal connection can be seen at the seafront teakwood summer residence, Klai Kangwon Palace.
Spa town
One of the country's first rail lines linked Bangkok to Hua Hin, transporting the capital's wealthy to the southern shores. Hua Hin thus assumed the aura of a European spa town, with the royals coming here for the clean air. Today the coastal town is reclaiming that mantle as several exclusive spa retreats - like the award-winning Chiva Som - cater to the needs of moneyed travellers.
Hua Hin sights
The 1923 colonial-style Sofitel Central Hua Hin Resort is a historic landmark, being the country's first resort hotel. The wide sweep of Hua Hin beach is backed by the lavish summer homes of Bangkok's elite, along with a series of faceless condo developments. South of town is Khao Takiab (Chopstick Hill), a rocky outcrop which marks the end of Hua Hin beach. The town sees a lot of weekend activities and events catering to the Bangkok crowds.
Outside Hua Hin
Most Hua Hin hotels organise day trips to Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. The Forestry Department runs accommodation here, but a better option is to stay at a hotel, such as the Dolphin Bay Resort.
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Places to visit in Hua Hin
Hua Hin beach
Some of the beachfront homes, which fuse elements of Thai and Western architecture, date back almost a century, and a few have been restored and converted into boutique resorts, like Baan Bayan and Baan Talay Dao. The beach, punctuated by occasional boulders that give it some scenic beauty, lacks the character of Thailand's palm-fringed island bays, but is still great for long strolls. The beaches further south of town, Suan Son and Khao Tao, are nicer and more secluded, but again, not picture-postcard.
While the sea is generally calm during the low season from May to September (with jellyfish an occasional problem), the winds can whip up the water towards the end and start of the year. This is when windsurfers and kite-surfers take to the water.
Khao Takiab
It is a steep climb to the top, but the views of the surrounding coast are worth the sweat. The hill is split into two windswept peaks; the nearest has several small shrines and a steep staircase that leads down to a towering 20m (66ft) -tall Buddha image. On the other brow is Wat Khao Lad, with its lofty pagoda atop a long flight of stairs.
Festivals and events
As the rest of Thailand hits the low season, the Gulf of Thailand gets a second high season when people head to Hua Hin for the Hua Hin Regatta, Hua Hin Jazz Festival, King's Cup Elephant Polo Tournament and Hua Hin Vintage Car Parade. With a very liberal interpretation of jazz, the Jazz Festival in June is unlikely to satisfy purists, but occasional top-class international acts do crop up. Otherwise it's a fun beach party with lots of live music.The Hua Hin Regatta, an annual event occuring in either July or August, has generally good sailing, often with lively winds and a variety of classes to compete in.
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
The name, meaning 'Three Hundred Mountain Peaks', refers to dramatic limestone pinnacles that jut from the mangrove swamps. The 98-sq-km (38-sq-mile) park has beaches, marshes and brackish lagoons, forests, caves and offshore islands, with wildlife that includes migratory birds, crab-eating macaques and a rare mountain antelope, called a serow.
The most famous attraction is Tham Phraya Nakhon, a huge cave with a large sinkhole that allows light to illuminate a grand pavilion built in the 1890s for a visit by King Chulalongkorn.
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